Questions? Comments or like to contact us? Use this form to message us.


Tel:    +1.604.421.2835

Sign up for our newsletter to get informed about NexDome news or new products.

Jun 28, 2018

Shutter charging position?


Nearing a feature complete version of the software but I have a question about user preference.


I've got the RG11 routines done that will close the shutter when it's raining and I've added routines and UI elements in the rotator sections that allow the user to choose what, if anything, the rotator will do when either the shutter voltage is low or it's raining.


The default action in a low voltage condition on the shutter will prevent any "open" commands from actually opening the shutter but it will not automatically close. A checkbox in the shutter settings form "Close when low" lets the user change that behaviour to automatically close as soon as a low voltage condition is detected.


The rotator now has a drop down list of actions to take when it is raining or the shutter has a low voltage condition. The choices are "None", "Go Home", or "Go Park". The idea being that if the shutter is closing then it may as well move the rotator to the shutter charging position.


I'm wondering if everyone has their chargers at home or park or if people are choosing some other position? I could add a "Charge Position" setting to the Home/Park set but would prefer not to as the rotator flash is getting quite full already.


So where do you charge your shutter controller?

Jun 28, 2018

HOME / Park position is what is recommended by NexDome in the user manual.

Jun 28, 2018

I use home/park 0 position. I'd like it to close if low power (so it would close before it's to low to do so.) I'm still getting weird sounds. (not just at the sensor) I've been testing Prism software and it tracks... sometimes when it moves it runs on after the move as if it's not quite shut off. (as if it's getting a bit of connection to move?) I can stop it by bumping the rotator button for a split sec. The sound it makes sounds unhealthy. So it's a bit worrisome.


Also since I'm not using SGP at present and exploring Prism, where do we set the mount off set numbers? I think before SGP asked. I don't see these options in PRism. (though it has everything else).

I am also running POTH. (PDM driver in poth) I see poth has off set boxes? (are these relavent?) I then connect Prism to POTH.

Jun 28, 2018

Ron, I dunno. Not familiar with Prism and the driver doesn't do anything with the offsets.


Babak, that's what I decided on using but I want to give people the opportunity to convince me otherwise. Not quite arrogant enough that I think I know everything about dome setups! Maybe after the driver is done and working well I can make my head swell a little lol.

Jun 28, 2018

My charger connection is at the PARK position.

Oct 5, 2018

Hod did you mount the charger? I held it in place under the shutter motor on a wall flange and it seemed a little tight on the hanging contacts. Did any of you space the charger downward a bit to leave a little less of a "squish" between the charger and the shutter contacts? I'm just "test holding" mine right now on a well space with an outside wheel to find a good way to mount them, but seemed a little tight fit without some other space. I might just be overthinking this too.


Oct 5, 2018

I mounted the actual charger on the wall of a bay and just ran the connector wire to the piece of angled plastic that holds the contacts (see photo). The plastic piece is mounted to the lip of a wall with two #10 x 1" screws that are secured with wingnuts on top of the lip. By adjusting the wingnuts, I can raise or lower the height of the contacts. I also increased the area of the charging contacts by adding a couple of pieces of 1/8" steel strap.




Oct 6, 2018

Good idea. I did notice also having the charger on the plastic and the wire bundle behind, it would interfere with my "home" rotator magnet. I'll look at doing something similar to yours. Thanks for the idea!

New Posts
  • This is the process i go through to get to the speed settings for the shutter, so a few questions: First I open ascom dome control panel I click connect. Of course it doesnt let you change values unless its disconnected, so i disconnect and reopen the nexdome ascom server monitoring window, hit setup: Seems no matter what values i put below, here 600/1500 etc, the speed of the shutter is the same. I had tried lowering these at first to see if it would help with the motor sticking. Is this the right procedure to lower the values and test? Also, i know there is a much longer thread here about updating the firmware on the shutter/rotator, but, what does the update firmware button here do? At one point i clicked it when only the rotator was connected, it claimed it updated? How do i know if i even need to update either? Both came brand new recently? Thanks in advance
  • I've completed the motor install (although i may be missing parts on the motor related to this, the set key that holds the pin in place was missing, found an m4 for now that seems to hold it but the pin doesnt go in fully, see this thread for more details) First issue (or maybe not), when i push the motor and it moves up, i think when the panel that has the band through it goes under the first panel, half way up, it sticks for a half second, flexes and pops and keeps going. After this at times on the way up, even during the first half, sometimes the motor stalls briefly. The biggest issue is after its up fully and you bring it down, the first 16" or so going back it stalls and moans repeatedly, however, interestingly i can work it forward by doing an on off real quick multiple times, OR by pressing upward on the motor. Here is a video clip of the stalling (most of it near the end): At this point i took all the wheels off the rear, added washers, so now they have quite a bit of flex available. The retention bracket is installed, but i had my son work the motor while i pulled back on the bracket and wheel on one side only, no change. When you pull the panels in the rear when its up there, apart, you can see grinding marks on each panel on the sides. So at this point i'm left with removing the retention brackets on both sides as a final test, and to be able to get the panels apart to add antifriction tape someone recommended. It appears the front panels will need to come off (not the rear solid non moving one), then apply tape as here: Here is an external view of the situation: This is the antifriction tape i've ordered (1" x 15 feet, two rolls,TapeCase 423-5 UHMW) : I dont know what else to try, other than what i have planned at this point. Pretty frustrated. Incidentally, i have the inside dome rotation working pretty solidly, so this is the only sticking point, pun intended. Thanks in advance.
  • Im breaking my shutter issues into multi parts here, in this one, i seem to be missing the set screw on the part by the gear as in this image: The part circled was naturally coming out. I'd like to get the official part to fix this, however in the meantime i've added what seems to mostly fit but not flush, m4 set screw and the locking pin goes in a tad further: Any suggestions here? From someone else, it appears that pin should slide all the way inside (i dont know if this could be related to the motor stalling/sticking issue i have (sep thread))