Has anyone figured out a good way to fill in the slots on the outside of the dome ring that tend to collect and hold water? This isn't a functional issue but over time algae, bugs, bird poop, etc. tend to collect in these slots/grooves and create a mess. Not much sticks to ABS plastic, but the "filler" doesn't really have to bind tightly to the ABS, just fill the space. Perhaps some type of casting resin, plaster of Paris? Any ideas appreciated!
-Stacey
OK, I finished my dome swale filling, and it was a real PITA. I tried both spray foam and Hydrocal.
It took about 1.25-1.5 pounds of Hydrocal to fill each swale area, and it was pretty easy to use and mostly leaves a flat surface. The downside is it doesn't stick to the dome and the thinner edges break really easily, In order to give those panels some slope I used quick setting Silicone adhesive to lay a bead at the rear portion of the swale.
The spray foam was pretty messy, even when using the Foambeak (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EAZJWG8?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_ypp_rep_k0_1_8&&crid=2K7PBPWQY8130&&sprefix=foambeak) which is supposed to leave a flat-ish finish. I sanded the swales, so things would stick and the foam stuck. I had to shape it while it was on the dome. I used a snap blade cutting knife, hand held wrasp and flat coping saw to cut the foam to shape. In a couple of places the foam had some big voids, so I filled them with Hydrocal which worked really well. The shutter panel needed to be trimmed because it wouldn't close with the filler in the swale. I used a small Dremel cutoff wheel and removed about 1.25" off the bottom.
Once I was satisfied with the filler, I covered it with 4" Flex Seal and Gorilla Waterproof tapes. Flex Seal comes in 5' rolls and Gorilla comes in 10' rolls for the same price at Home Depot. There were a few spots where the tape presented large air spaces, so I had to slit them open, pushed out the air and added more tape. In areas where the tape didn't sit flush with the dome, I slit them to lay them flat. I had some spray Flex Seal paint which was okay, but I ran out, so I replaced it with a quart can of Flex Seal paint which is thicker and flows better. In some places, I poured the Flex Seal paint on to the tape and let it self level to fill uneven spots. I used a more than half the can to finish the job all around the dome.
I might clean mine soon ... might ... unless I go forward with my "other" plan ... build my own dome out of wood and be done with this :)
The new dome build is probably not going to be this year though (too many projects going on)
Here is what it looks like. I haven't clean it since installing the foam and flex seal :
As said, when it rains, the small bottom dip that is still there dries up quickly and is not bad in comparison the the big one that stayed wet for a while and was more or less rotting.
Thanks. Looking forward to seeing how it has held up.
What I've done works well. No more mosquito pool !
I'll go take a picture later to show the state of it as for today.
Rodolphe and Stacey Mills, it's been awhile since your modifications have been implemented. I'm wondering how your water prevention efforts have held up to both winter and summer weather. Would you please share any photos of how your respective repairs have held up and worked?
Thanks,
Steven
It is done, I'm not doing anything more than the above (foam + sealant tape + flex seal paint).
I cut the foam with a serrated kitchen knife
It's not easy, but it's a one time job to not have to deal with the mosquito pool after each rain... and it stays clean, doesn't add any significant weight to the dome so doesn't create any new issue with the rotation motor.
Looks pretty good but sounds like lots of work. How did you cut the foam? I've used spray foam and cutting it hasn't been easy, especially if it hardens for a day or so.
Any secrets to divulge?
Steven
Sorry for the delay.
Foam after cutting it :
Tape applied :
First coat of Flex Seal :
I plan on applying a 2nd coat to take care of the few spots that are not fully covered.
It does have a bit of stretch, not as much as vinyl though.
It can be stretch a bit on a curve but I still needed to make 2 small cuts to make it conform better to the shape of the panel and foam.
Does the tape have any stretch to it, like vinyl electrical tape?
I'll post picture when I cut the foam on the other panels.
The tape looks like it might keep it watertight, especially when covered with flex seal. Please post a couple of photos after you've sprayed the foam, and after you cut it down. From this picture, it looks like the foam is higher than the gutter edge.
Steven
Here is a quick picture (after it rained ! ) :
As the dome is curved I made some cut in 2 places and then applied a small band.
This will be painted with flex seal to plug any remaining holes.
The expanding foam under it sticks enough to the dome, but adding the sealant tape on top provide even more protection agains seating water .
As it's raining right now I'll have to wait to finish the other panels.
I'll post some photo soon (hopefully tomorrow) ... I had too many meetings today and didn't had time to go to the dome to take picture of the 2 panels I've done.
Shouldn't be a weight problem. No release agent needed. Hardly anything sticks to ABS. Unless I seal it down a tiny amount of water probably will get underneath but I've checked after rains and it seems to be little or none and evaporates quickly , The one I photographed has been there for about three months. It's gotten dirty and painting with gloss white would help, after I sand the edges. I'm not sure how much it will take to do the whole dome. 15 lbs might not be quite enough.
Here's an image of the one area that I've done. I need to take it out, sand the edges and paint it, but even as it is it keeps the water out.
Well.. I modified my shutter too :) , I'll post some pictures (new shutter with plastic tracks on first generation dome... fun ! ... as this wasn't meant to go together ... but nothing I can't adapt :D ).
I used HydroCal on one of my dome sections and it appears to have worked well. As I expected it didn't stick to the ABS but it didn't really need to. It's bright white and appears to be holding up well. I haven't had a chance to do the other sections yet. The sections at the front and back of the shutter probably can't be done for shutter clearance.
I' testing something right now.
I fill the groove with standard expanding foam (In my case Loctite tite foam), then cut it after it has expanded and dried. I then apply this on top :
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XCCJD6Z?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
I do 2 band starting with the bottom part and overlapping a top band from the top (I'll try to tale picture soon).
This way, even if the foam were to get dislodged, the sealant tape keeps it in place and prevent water collection.
I will then spay the whole thing with some flex seal ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W5Y2X36?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details ) to make sure there is no way for water to get in.
I've done 2 panels so far but the weather is preventing me for doing the others ... but I should have some more clement weather in the next few days to finish.
Will do. I'm thinking that when cured I'll pop it out, paint it white and glue it back in. I'll keep you posted.
I didn't realize this issue had been fixed. I ordered some HydroCal casting plaster/concrete. It's cheap and stronger than plaster of Paris. I'll try it on a couple of panels. I don't expect that it will adhere to the ABS but when dry I can pop it out and glue it back in with contact cement.
This is really a good question. I'm surprised no one has chimed in.
I've heard folks talk about BONDO no sure you can use it in a thick layer. I've used a 2 part clay putty to smooth out the joints between panels, but that would be really expensive. I've thought of using the spray poly foam used to seal holes in stucco, but not sure if it would stick, and it would look hideous.
Since I'm getting 3 new replacement panels where they fixed the gutter issue I'd be willing to fill the remaining 4 panels but with what. Again, a really good question. Some type of epoxy that won't break the bank and adhere to ABS plastic.
Steven